some people swap the original engine for a C20LET (from a cavalier/calibra turbo) which will push over 200bhp from the factory. they have a much better (for power) head design and rev a lot more freely. they're a lot more responsive, more powerful, dont suffer the sensor probs of the eco and are generally a bit easier to get more from. not a lot of gain and no better noise but half the price.Ī lot of people (me included) swap the eco for a C20XE or redtop as they're usually known. you need to keep the hot air away from the filter and get a cool air feed to keep it that way. an induction kit will give a nicer sound but you'll lose power unless its a very well designed kit. the only way to get more fuel is a chip/map (unless you block off the return or something else a bit silly). they have a knock sensor and a mass meter (unlike the VW's you're used to), along with electronic injection (i presume all the VW's were hydraulic) and therefore they'll just take injector pulse down until the same fuel level is reached. you'll be lucky to go much over 150bhp if you get a full exhaust, chip, etc. If you're trying to get decent gains and not spending loads you're weeing against the breeze. The reasons they dont rev freely are mostly flywheel weight and (the big one) the shape of the ports in the head. they're not "unreliable", just not bombproof. the eco is known for sensor faults, the odd headgasket, water pumps, etc.
power wise you have what i'd consider the worst 2.0 that came in the cav. that brings us to the second problem.īecause the cars heavier you need more power to drag its lardy butt along. you could take out the impact bars, airbags, sound deadening, etc and lose a little but you'll struggle to get it down to golf weight.
if you're used to golfs you're giving away a fair bit in weight. Well you'll have 2 decent sized problems and a few smaller ones.
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